Vermouth: What It Is And How To Store It

Most of the value in vermouth comes from technique, not price tags. None of it needs expensive bottles. The rest of this article covers vermouth in plain, practical terms.

Where the money goes

It helps to remember that buy smaller bottles when you can, and write the opening date on the label with a marker. Taste vermouth neat, on ice with an orange peel, to learn which you enjoy before you mix it. A good vermouth makes classic cocktails taste noticeably better, and it also makes a fine light aperitif with soda.

Bottles worth buying

Worth keeping in mind: vermouth is a wine that has been fortified with a neutral spirit and flavored with botanicals such as herbs, spices, roots and bark. It is not a spirit, which is the key to everything about how it should be handled. It sits on the bar shelf next to whiskey and gin but behaves more like a bottle of wine once it is opened.

The goal is a drink you can repeat easily, not a perfect one-off.

Tools you can skip

There are several styles. Dry vermouth is pale, crisp and herbal, and it belongs in martinis. Sweet vermouth, usually red, is richer, with notes of spice, vanilla and dried fruit, and it is essential in Manhattans and negronis. Blanc or bianco vermouth is sweet but light, and rosé and amber versions add variety. Each is worth trying on its own over ice.

The practical takeaway is to measure every pour, since small changes shift the balance.

Making your own

More often than not, storage is where many home bars go wrong. Once opened, vermouth oxidizes and slowly loses its aroma and brightness. Keep opened bottles in the refrigerator with a tight cap or stopper, and use them within about one to three months. A small bottle you finish quickly is better than a large one that sits for a year.

None of this needs to be exact to the drop; taste and adjust to your liking.

Small costs that add up

In practice, you can tell when it has faded. Fresh vermouth smells lively, fragrant and fruity. Old vermouth smells dull, flat or sharp like stale sherry or vinegar, and tastes tired. If your martini suddenly tastes bland or odd, check the vermouth before blaming the gin. Discard it, or use a minor amount in cooking while it is still acceptable.

Practical tips

Some practical points to keep in mind:

• Use fresh citrus, squeezed the same day.
• Measure with a jigger rather than free-pouring.
• Chill your glasses before serving.
• Taste before you serve and adjust the balance.

The bottom line

The best drink is the one you will make again. Take it one drink at a time. Each one teaches you a little more about balance.